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Passion for high mountains, peak bagging, adventure running, alpinism, mountaineering, skiing, and exploring remote areas.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Eastern Rajastan and the Pink City

After four days of vague transportation limbo between New Delhi and Jaipur, of which there are no written records due to my long-standing aversion to note-taking while traveling (it just feels like I’m trying to get a PhD in vacationing), we finally arrived in Jaipur, the heart of eastern Rajasthan.

Arrival Vibes:
We rolled into Jaipur at nightfall. The city greeted us with warm desert air and a thirst for something cold. Naturally, we picked up some beers and lounged in the hotel lobby where we met Dan from Seattle, a doctor who quickly proved himself better at drinking than diagnosing. He slowly dissolved into his chair on the rooftop as we enjoyed dinner under the Rajasthani sky and watched a puppet show. Surprisingly, the puppeteer was from Nepal, because nothing says "local cultural performance" like outsourcing your puppets.

Architectural Eye Candy:
The hotel itself was a masterpiece, an explosion of colors and intricate designs. Every hallway looked like a photo shoot backdrop, and I seriously considered moving in permanently if they had unlimited naan.

Hawa Mahal & Wandering Royals:
The next morning, we kicked off our sightseeing with Hawa Mahal, Jaipur’s famous pink honeycomb palace. As Ranber, our local guide, explained, pink in Jaipur stands for hospitality, though it could also stand for “will blind you at noon under full sun.” The city is a chaotic mix of palaces, ancient forts, and bazaars, all glowing under layers of rose-colored paint and layers of actual dust.

The Amber Palace, however, started to feel like déjà vu with a fancier label. Think Red Fort with more maze and slightly fewer tourists photobombing your selfies. Once inside, we played an accidental escape room challenge, navigating through a confusing series of chambers and passages. There were moments I thought I might just start living there out of confusion.

The Elephant Dilemma:
And then, my first-ever elephant ride. Five of us, one elephant. We took turns. I was so thrilled that I handed my camera to a complete stranger, who then proceeded to run alongside us like a National Geographic intern on espresso, snapping a dozen pictures during our epic 700-meter journey. I tipped him 100 rupees and zero questions.

But the excitement soured quickly. The mahout guiding the elephant was striking the poor animal with what looked like a fireplace poker. The metallic thud against thick skin is a sound I’ll never forget. I closed my eyes hoping if I didn’t see it, it wouldn’t exist, but there’s no earplugs for ethics. It was a heartbreaking moment, and one I still feel uncomfortable about.

Final Thoughts:
Jaipur is magical, chaotic, beautiful, and deeply layered, with color, history, and contradictions. Between Dan’s drunken rooftop wisdom, maze-palace wanderings, and the internal conflict of that elephant ride, it was a city that didn’t let me remain just a tourist.




We stopped by at the textile shop on our way to our hotel. I left the store with some cushion covers, fitted Indian shirts, and Alibaba pants which I think it was ridiculously over-priced.



I had to pick up a map of India(something like a road Atlas) at the local store because I did not have a guidebook and did not know how to get around. I was totally dependent with Evelyn’s group during the 4 day of traveling. They'll be heading out to Jaisalmer, while on the other hand, I’ll be traveling East of India to Varanasi.



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