I was at the parking lot at 12:30pm and made to the lake just shortly after 2.5 hours. I had a quick snack at the toe of the glacier and continued to Wedge-Weart col where I bivied.
Although, I was sheltered and warm, the strong gust had kept me awake the whole night. The tarp above me felt like it was being shredded into pieces by the wind. The sound was terrible.
The weather in the morning wasn’t great. I was socked in by dark low clouds.
From Weart-Wedge col, I descended to Weart glacier. I’ve noticed the snow wall from the south ridge of Weart where I descended had collapsed sometime that week. I felt comfortable crossing Weart glacier by myself. I did not see any big open crevasses on the way to the base of the gully of Eureka.
And soon I was at the base of the gully, my nemesis. I sat and contemplated a bit, having a debate to myself if I wanted to climb it again. I was flustered with fear.
I always find the top part of the gully is too steep to my liking plus the exposure is making me really nervous.
From Weart glacier, I headed south of Eureka into Needle glacier to Peggy Peak. Just another nipple peak in the glacier.
I had several whiteout on the way up and took most of my time as I had to wait up until I would get a full visibility. It was gentle snow walk to the summit. However, I ran into a massive hole but managed to avoid it.
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