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Passion for high mountains, peak bagging, adventure running, alpinism, mountaineering, skiing, and exploring remote areas.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Blanca Peak via Squamish Main Branch 400

My weekend plan was to check out Ring Mountain, then head toward Blanca and Exodus via the E300 route. From Ring’s summit, I scouted a possible line, S400B looked like the easiest and most direct approach.

I car-camped between Carnival Creek and Dipper Creek, overlooking the cutblock on the south side. It looked like S428 is still active, as I saw a couple of logging trucks coming down.

I planned to start early but heavy rain had me hitting snooze a few too many times. I eventually left the cutblock around 9am and bushwhacked up the north side of the creek. Snow started around 1000m. I followed an old avalanche path, climbed over some fallen trees, and even got buried in a treewell at one point.

Despite some ominous clouds, I broke above the cloud layer an hour later into clear blue skies. The final stretch up the east ridge to the col between Blanca’s two peaks required an ice axe. I tagged the south peak first with a fun scramble, then made my way to the north peak, navigating around cornices and a short knife-edge ridge.

Both summits were fantastic, but doing Blanca and Exodus in a single day? Probably too ambitious for this trip. Still, a solid day out with some great terrain and views.

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